La Flégère, Chamonix - Le Praz
In summer the cable car at Flégère and the Index chairlift operate, taking you up to an altitude of 1,894m and then on to 2,396m at the top of the Index.
Les Prapators and Le Chapeau circuit
A picturesque circuit of around 12km with a lovely lunch stop
With having spent a few years exploring the trails of this valley, I thought I knew all the accessible routes so when someone mentioned one I’d never heard of I was excited to check it out - even more so when I was promised a good lunch along the way.
Starting from Chamonix we took the train to Les Tines (timetables can be found here); on exiting the station you cross the road, turn left and look for a pathway leading into the forest, signposted for Le Chapeau. After a few hundred metres on a 4x4 track the route branches off to the left and narrows to a small footpath.
This walk is a nice one for a hot day as much of it is in the shade of the trees, with the air getting cooler as you climb up past Lavancher towards Le Chapeau. When the paths pops you out at Lavancher you need to bear right and look for the continuation of the path that leads away from the bend in the road.
It’s uphill all the way to Le Chapeau but mostly at a pleasant gradient, twisting in and out of the forest and coming out occasionally into wild tangles of long grass and Alpine flowers. As you get closer to Le Chapeau you’ll see little signs tucked amongst the paths, labelling certain plants and herbs (they mostly looked like weeds to me, but I’m no expert). The last little push up to the buvette is absolutely lovely with a number of small streams trickling across and alongside the path and bright purple lupins swaying in the breeze.
Le Chapeau is a pretty little wooden chalet with Tibetan prayer flags fluttering overhead, surrounded by swathes of colourful flowers. It sits on a little terrace at 1,576m with excellent views of both the Chamonix valley and of the jagged peaks of Le Drus and Les Grandes Jorasses looming over the Mer de Glace.
After a lovely lunch of salad and omelette we filled our water bottles from a cold stream and continued onwards to La Tête des Prapators, making a little detour to the viewpoint that looks out over the Mer de Glace.
After this point the path gets markedly steeper and we were soon making regular excuses to stop and admire the view, so that we could catch our breath. It’s well worth the effort though, as the views get more and more spectacular the higher you get. There’s also the excitement of the odd bit of scrambling over rocks, aided by ladders and metal rails embedded in the mountainside. We finally made it up to the giddy height of 1844m and had a brief pause for water and recuperation at the Tête des Prapators, before heading back down via Lavancher following signs for Les Tines and Les Bois, passing by the Retour Pendant chairlift at Les Grands Montets en route.
Considering the climb up seemed so long and steep, the descent actually felt quite gentle; there was the occasional skitter down the odd rocky section but generally it was a pleasant trot through overgrown greenery and cool forests. After four hours of hot and dusty hiking we were more than ready for the cool breezes coming off the roaring torrents of the Source des Arveyrons as we returned back to the Bois du Bouchet. From there it was a flat stroll alongside the river back to Chamonix, stopping only to scratch the ears of a friendly goat by the Bergerie d’Orthaz.
All in all, our circuit took in a little over 12 kilometres and climbing about 1,000m in elevation, meaning that our après-hike beers in MOO Bar were extremely well deserved.
What to see
Sights in Chamonix
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Les Grands Montets, Chamonix - Argentière
The Plan Joran télécabine takes you up to Grands Montets at an altitude of 1,972 metres.
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Municipal library
The main central library for Chamonix which houses the occasional exhibition and lectures.
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Mer de Glace and Montenvers cog railway
No trip to Chamonix should be complete without a visit to the legendary Mer de Glace, the longest and arguably the most impressive glacier in the Chamonix valley. It is also the largest glacier in France.
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Aiguille Rouge nature reserve
The Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve was created in 1974 and is a bio-diverse area of around 16,000 hectares with spectacular views of the Col des Montets. There is an information centre where you can find out about the animals and plants of the area and buy a drink or snack.
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Alpine museum
The museum is currently closed for renovations
Where to lunch
Restaurants in Chamonix
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La Petite Cuisine Restaurant
Situated in La Folie Douce Hotel, enjoy a delicious meal after a morning on the slopes with family or friends.
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Le Comptoir de Plan Praz Restaurant and Café
At Le Comptoir de Plan Praz in Chamonix, the food celebrates hearty alpine tradition with a refined touch. Expect comforting dishes like rich tartiflette, savory raclette, and melted cheese fondue, perfect after a day on the slopes. Fresh-baked breads, crisp seasonal salads, and homemade desserts add balance. Ingredients are locally sourced whenever possible, offering authentic mountain flavors. Warm soups, generous meat platters and light vegetarian options ensure there’s something for every appetite and mood.
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Bighorn Bistro Restaurant
Bighorn Bistro in Chamonix Sud is known for its homemade American-style comfort food, from stacked burgers to freshly baked desserts. You can pair your meal with a craft beer or one of their creative cocktails. With friendly service and a laid-back atmosphere, it’s a favourite with both locals and visitors, offering generous portions, warm hospitality, and a menu that consistently delivers hearty, satisfying flavours after a day on the mountain or during a relaxed evening out.
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The Dainty Pizza Restaurant
Using high-quality ingredients and traditional methods, these pizzas are made with a sourdough crust prepared from mother yeast, two flours, sea salt, water and extra virgin olive oil, then left to rise for at least 72 hours for light, easy digestion. They use San Marzano and Yellow Datterini tomatoes and the freshest fior di latte mozzarella. With sustainability in mind, only a couple of organic meat options are offered, keeping the menu thoughtful and delicious.
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Big Mountain Basecamp Bar & Restaurant
Whether you’re hungry or thirsty after a day in the mountains, Big Mountain Basecamp has you covered. Come for fresh craft beer, a relaxed restaurant atmosphere, an on-site micro-brewery, a large sunny terrace, shady beer garden and a take-out beer shop.
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Pointe Isabelle Bar and Bistro Restaurant
This tastefully refurbished restaurant and bar are right in the heart of Chamonix on the popular Avenue Michel Croz, close to the train station.
What to do
Things To Do in Chamonix
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Photography workshop - "L'Art du Regard"
Join an award-winning photographer for a half-day course focused on improving your observation, exploring light, and developing your photographic eye. This workshop is suitable for all levels, ages, and equipment types.
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Guided off-piste Vallée Blanche
Chamonix Mont Blanc Guides specialise in high mountain guiding, skiing and alpinism. Based in the Chamonix Valley, at the foot of the Mont Blanc range, they have all the experience and expertise to make your dream adventure become a reality.
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Chamonix photoshoots
The Chamonix-based photographer Teresa Kaufman proposes naturally-lit photoshoots to capture and illustrate quality memories in outstanding surroundings.
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Tandem paragliding
This company's sole activity is tandem paragliding, so they are 100 % focused on you and your flight. Their fully qualified pilots have vast experience and have done 1,000s of flight in the Chamonix Valley.
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Tandem Paragliding
Discover the unforgettable sensation of flying high above the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc valley on a tandem paragliding adventure. Whether it’s your first time in the air or you’re craving an adrenaline-fuelled experience, each flight is designed to showcase the Alps from their most spectacular angle.
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Cinema VOX
Chamonix's own Cinema VOX is situated right in the centre of town, slightly tucked back on the Place Balmat (main square in the centre). There are three recently refurbished screens equipped with digital 3D projectors show the latest French and International films, as well as a number of premieres and specialist mountain-sports films.
