Rising Temperatures Could Mean Dangerous Alpine Conditions
Heatwave set to continue over the weekend
With the unseasonally high temperatures expected this week extra precaution is advised if you are venturing into the high mountains.
The heat wave is set to continue throughout the week and into the weekend. These high temperatures are not usually an issue in the high mountains in September, but since it is early July and only being the beginning of the climbing season here, it could result in a dangerous few months ahead.
With 6°c being recorded at the Aiguille du Midi (3842m) yesterday and the temperature set to rise this can bring many dangers to the alpine environment. Rocks held in place by snow that is quickly melting will become loose and fall, increasing the dangers for climbers. In places such as the Grand Couloir on the Gouter route of Mont Blanc, there have already been fatalities during this past week. Captain Patrice Ribes from the PGHM has warned Alpinists of the dangers of the Grand Couloir, advising that it should only be crossed early when temperatures are at their lowest.
Some of the granite in the high mountains is actually held in place by ice within the rock face, almost like a glue. If this thaws out then even well travelled rock routes could quickly become dangerous and crumble away.
Snow bridges and seracs are also another danger being faced by Alpinists. I witnessed a very large serac fall on Monday at 8:30am on the lower NW face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Although serac fall can occur at any given moment due to many factors, this is an early indication of rising temperatures. There was also another large serac fall on the north face of Aiguille du Midi yesterday at around 12:30pm, I was on the Frendo Spur and luckily was out of reach from the falling debris. Another major concern are the snow bridges on the classic Vallee Blanche traverse, this classic and popular route crosses many large snow bridges that will become weaker over the next few days and just following in the existing track might not be the safest option.
With the isotherm (0 degree level) reaching 4700m, which is almost the summit of Mont Blanc, it will be a very warm affair for those attempting to reach the summit over the next few days. Extra water is recommended to avoid dehydration and it is advised to take regular rest stops and don't be shy with the sun cream!
