The weather lately has been very changeable, veering from hot sunshine to torrential downpours and back again. Thankfully there has been more of the former than the latter though.
Yesterday couldn't make up its mind, so we had a bit of everything. Storms had been forecast from Sunday onwards but not appeared and Monday dawned bright and sunny so we optimistically set off on a hike in the mountains. After driving up through Servoz and Passy we parked up at Plaine Joux (see map) and set off in the direction of Refuge Moede Anterne. There are two paths to choose from, one that takes 2 hours 45 minutes and another that takes 3 hours 15 minutes, we took the quicker path up and the longer path down. The quicker path up is also the easiest (although we assumed it would be steeper and harder), it pretty much follows a 4x4 track all the way to the refuge and is straightforward enough, passing through some very pretty little clusters of chalets and stone huts along the way.
On setting off the sun was beating down quite fiercely, so we were surprised to be hitting patches of snow even quite early on. Higher up the mountain and there was yet more snow, spring flowers didn't seem to have sprung and there were even patches of frozen ground - didn't feel like July at all! There wasn't enough snow to make the route hard to follow though so we continued on up to the refuge in hope of crepes on the sunny terrace. This is when the weather decided to stick to the forecast for a change... the sky started to darken, heavy raindrops started to plop, thunder started rumbling ominously from the other side of the mountain ridge.
Not a problem, the refuge has a small but cosy bar area where you can get a drink and something to eat. We settled in with a cheese omelette for monsieur and a salad for madame. They were both very nice and freshly made, the salad had a tasty lemony dressing and lots of crunchy croutons; the dishes were a little on the small side though which always confuses me about mountain huts - surely everyone who turns up there is ravenous from hiking and/or climbing? Anyhow, we were looking forward to a crepe to finish but the girl behind the bar seemed so confused and distracted by every request that we gave up in the end. The couple who run the refuge are very good hosts though and always friendly, so hopefully things will pick up soon. The man came over for a chat and when we commented on the amount of snow he explained that it has been particularly hard for them so far this summer as they haven't been able to get a vehicle up there yet, which makes doing the weekly shop a bit of a mission!
Once the rain eased off we headed back down via the longer path which goes past Lac Pormenaz, a popular swimming hole in the summer. This route is definitely more challenging with steep twisty descents and lots of rocks and rivers to navigate, chains are bolted to the side of the path in places to give you something to hang on to! However, it is also infinitely more rewarding - stunning views, lush vegetation, crystal clear waterfalls all make the adventure worthwhile. There may have been a bit too much snow to give the spring flowers a chance to bloom but the green plants are thriving vividly and all the waterways are gushing at full force. It feels like the nice bit at the start of Lord of the Rings before it gets all dark and moody.
However, the clouds were thickening again and looking menacing so we had to get a bit of a shift on before we got caught out by the impending storm. Storms out here are amazing and magnificent and awe-inspiring, but I would rather view them from the safety of my balcony that from a wiggly little path halfway up a very rocky mountain. The formidable sound of thunder rolling across the sky sounded like ancient dragons growling after a long sleep (I think I've been watching too much Game of Thrones lately).
Anyway, we pegged it all the way down and arrived in Plaine Joux only a little bit wet, quite muddy (I fell over twice) and way ahead of schedule. The times given on the hiking signs are always quite generous, which means you've often got time for a leisurely lunch break or a cold drink stop before you finish. There are plenty of options close to the start/end of the longer route including Châtelet d' Ayères which is a charming old chalet looking out over the pastures, Lac Vert where there is a restaurant and bar beside the lake, or Plaine Joux where there are lots of restaurants and cafes with great views and child-friendly play areas.
As well as the hike that we did there are lots of shorter/easier options leaving from Plaine Joux and it's nice to see the Mont Blanc mountains from a different perspective every now and then!
The big event this week is the World Climbing Festival, starting on Thursday and running until the final competition on Saturday. Elite climbers from all over the world will come to compete in the Climbing World Cup on a huge structure in the centre of town. The whole event is free to watch and the level of skill and strength on show is incredible, the speed at which they shoot up the wall is just unbelievable. The festival ends on Saturday night with a street party and firework display to commemorate Bastille Day on the 14th, it's usually one of the best parties of the year! You're allowed to spend Sunday daytime in bed sleeping it off but make sure you get to Lac Chavants in Les Houches for the evening when there will be a music concert from 9pm, followed by more fireworks (usually a very good display) and then a DJ playing until the small hours.
All upcoming events can be found on our Events Calendar.
