Chamonix Activity Report: 4th June 2007

It's still relatively quiet in town at the moment with the exception of the weekend when we get the usual flurry of day trippers popping through; but there is still sufficient entertainment of an evening to keep you amused. Casa Valerio is open again after a very brief period of closure – not sure how they managed to recharge their batteries from the winter in such a short time, but we're obviously delighted not to be without the best pizza and Italian food in town for too long. If you're on the look out for something different then there is Alan Peru, a noodle bar in Chamonix sud which offers a delicious assortment of Thai fusion food and fabulous desserts. Newly opened last December, they are now in full swing with their summer menu which can be enjoyed in the funky interior or out on the terrace. A trip to Cham wouldn't be complete though without at least one fondue or pierrade, and you'd be hard pushed to find a better one than in La Caleche, right in the centre of town.

The summer season will begin in earnest from next weekend, when the valley lift system begins to open up. At the moment it is only the Aiguille du Midi and the Montenvers Train that are in operation, but Les Houches is opening up next weekend, giving access to some great mountain biking and hiking trails. A return ride on the Prarion gondola costs €9.50 for adults or €7.90 for a single but they also do a special day ticket for bikers and paragliders giving you multiple rides for €13.70. The Flegere cable car is also springing back to life next weekend (8th/9th/10th June only) before opening properly for the season on June 16th. This will enable you to explore some of the hiking trails on the sunny side of the valley (Lac Blanc, Lacs des Cheserys, Grand Balcon Sud) but do check with the Office de la Haute Montagne (beside the church) before setting out, to get the latest info on snow cover on the trails, especially higher up towards Lac Blanc. Also worth remembering that unless you're doing a return ride on the cable car, you'll need to factor in time to walk back down to the valley floor as Brevent doesn't open until 23rd June. For more ideas on hiking trails to explore click here.

We took a saunter along the Grand Balcon Nord last weekend (just before our surprise dump!) and even then there was still a considerable depth of snow (nearly 1m) in places. All in all, about one third of the trail was still covered but it is passable with care, plus good boots and walking sticks and allow yourself at least 2.5 – 3 hours to complete the route as the snow obviously impedes your progress. We did it from Plan d'Aiguille to the Montenvers train (I always find that the gradient is ever so slightly in your favour that way!) and whilst our view of the trail in this direction was quite a summery one; we met a couple of groups doing it the other way and, looking back from where we'd come from, the entire hillside looked covered! Strange trick of the land. The Mer de Glace ice cave and the Crystal Museum are both closed at the moment for necessary renovation work but it is still well worth the visit for the views of the “Sea of Ice” glacier and surrounding peaks, oh, and the chocolate brownies in the cafe!

This summer again, there is an excellent lift ticket available called the Multi Pass Mont Blanc which gives unlimited access to all the areas in the valley (except Les Houches and the panoramique gondola to Helbronner). It is available for a variety of durations with the added bonus this year of a non-consecutive day option to be used within a 1 or 2 week period. A season version is also available if you're planning on being here more than once or for a longer period of time. Starting at €46 for the day, €100 for 6 days or €62 for a 2 day non-consecutive pass (to be used within 7 days), it is a great way to see the valley, and considering most summer visitors will at least go up the Aiguille du Midi (€37) and on the Montenvers train (€20), it offers pretty good value for money.

Other things going on in the valley recently include the annual ARSMB (Association pour le Respect du Site du Mont-Blanc) bike ride against the trucks. Each year, anti-truck campaigners gather together to ride their bikes up the main dual carriage way into Chamonix from Le Fayet. The road is closed for the afternoon and the bikers assume a VERY leisurely pace on the ascent – this year they didn't appear in Cham until about 6pm, over 3 hours after leaving Le Fayet! In 2006, it was a horrendously wet day and it was a very sorry looking group that completed the ride. This year however, the weather was on side and nearly 400 people, ranging in age from 4 to 84, pedalled, walked or roller bladed up the hill in protest at the thousands of smelly trucks that pass through the valley each day.

Otherwise, things are ticking along rather quietly just now as the town builds up for the summer. The resurfacing work in the centre of town is continuing, albeit rather slowly, but we will have a much tidier and less slippy main square as a result. If you've never been to Cham in the summer then you will probably be surprised by the number of visitors who do come; it's easily as busy as the winter, and with so many activities available; hiking, mountain biking, paragliging and white water rafting it's a haven for outdoor sports enthusiasts. If you like to pass your summers at a more leisurely pace then we're generally very fortunate with the weather too and Chamonix is a perfect spot to enjoy a bit of rest and relaxation in stunning scenery. The shopping is great, the bars and cafes are lively and if you time it right, you might just coincide your trip with one of the many summer events that the town hosts. Keep an eye on the What's On Calendar for the main attractions over the summer.