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Chamonix Activity Report: 20th August

Hiking with Hounds : Dog-Friendly Walks in the Chamonix Valley

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By Alison Shayler, Updated

The French are known for their love of dogs and here in Chamonix they are in their element with so much open space to run around in. They are welcome in most bars, many restaurants and their presence is very rarely frowned upon anywhere.

However, with much of the countryside around these parts being designated nature reserves you do have to be a bit careful about where you can and can't let your hound roam free. Pretty much all of the lower valley trails are OK, including the Petit Balcons that run along either side of the valley and the trails leading off them up to the level of the lift stations. However, once you reach the higher parts of the mountains you need to look out out for signs to find out whether dogs are banned altogether or just restricted to being kept on a lead; dogs are not allowed over the back of Brevent, in the Aiguille Rouges nature reserve in between Flegere and Le Buet or along the Aiguillette des Houches. In other areas you may have to keep them on a lead at certain times of the year due to grazing livestock or mating wildlife.

Most of the lifts allow dogs but don't be caught out as a friend of mine was recently when she hiked up Montenvers and all the way across to Plan de l'Aiguille before finding out that dogs are not allowed in the Aiguille du Midi cable car, it's another 2-3 hours to walk back down!

You can find out more handy dog-related info here, including veterinary services. Here are a few of my favourite dog walks, along with where to stop for a dog-friendly drink afterwards.

1. Chamonix to Argentiere
Start from the golf course at Les Praz, go through the car park and follow the path past the driving range and through the Paradis des Praz childrens' play area. This walk is so simple that you couldn't possibly go wrong, just keep following the path all the way to Argentiere. It starts off alongside the river where there is plenty of shade and lots of opportunity for hot dogs to go for a paddle, the path splits at one point and gives you the option of going high or low - it makes no difference which one you choose as they both end up in Argentiere so just base it on whether or not you fancy a bit of an uphill workout. As an alternative you can cross the bridge at Les Tines and go via Lavancher, once over the bridge you go through a short tunnel and turn left past a few pretty old chalets and a beautiful little chapel. Follow the small path that skirts along just below the road until you reach the point where you cross over, make sure your dog is on a lead here as the crossing is on a bit of a sketchy bend and you don't want him dashing out into oncoming traffic. Pick up the path on the other side of the road and follow signs to Lavancher, a small peaceful hamlet with idyllic meadows and pine forests from where you can pick up signs to Argentiere. It'll take about 2 hours if you take this route, or about 1-1:30 if you stay on the more direct path.

Apres-hike : Argentiere high street has a few good options including Savoy Bar for a beer in scruffy but charming chalet-style pub or Rusticana for great food, you've earned the right to scoff a massive portion of their freshly battered fish and chips!

2. Les Houches to Prarion
Start from the base station of the Prarion gondola, walk on past the roundabout with the car park on your right until you see a sign pointing left towards Col de la Forclaz and Prarion. Then keep going up! It is a steep and fairly relentless hike but if your calves are up to the challenge then the whopping views that you get once you emerge from the woods are more than worth the effort. The ground drops away to either side and as the path winds its way up towards the peak you get alternating views of the Chamonix valley on one side and the Passy valley on the other, eventually the trail becomes a ridge and then you can see both valleys at once while the Mont Blanc range stretches out in front of you. It takes about 3 hours to get to the Prarion summit from where you can see the whole of the Alps (not really but that's what it feels like). You can certainly see a lot of the Glacier du Bionnassey, the Aiguille du Gouter and the route that the tram takes up to the Nid d'Aigle - not a bad spot as far as picnic venues go. It takes about 3 hours up and there isn't much in the way of running water, so take a big enough bottle for you and the dog to share if it is a hot day. You can take dogs in the Prarion gondola free of charge so you can save your knees on the way back down.

Apres-hike : Walk or take the bus to the Bellevue car park and call into the Kitsch Inn for hearty homecooked food, good cakes and regular live gigs.

3. Argentiere - Le Tour
Catch the train or bus to Argentiere and walk through town until you get to a bar called The Office, turn right and carry on until you get to a car park with a bridge at the end. Go under the bridge, turn left and follow the path to Le Tour. The path is mostly shaded and climbs up gradually until you are looking down over the valley on your left; enchanted forests and magic faraway trees give way onto views of meadows and chocolate box chalets. About 2/3 of the way along there is a wooden bridge that crosses over the river, you can scramble down the side and sit on one of the big rocks while the hound has a cold drink and cools his paws in the clear glacial waters. It takes about 2 hours to get to Le Tour, from where you can catch a bus back to Argentiere or Chamonix (check the time table beforehand as they are not very frequent).

Apres-hike : Hotel Olympique at the foot of Le Tour has a big sunny terrace with superb views back down the valley in the direction of where you've just hiked from, or there are deckchairs on a little lawn to the side if you fancy a cheeky snooze. Alternatively there is a very charming little cafe bar in the Le Tour car park that serves simple lunches, snacks and drinks.

The Chamonix Adventure Festival takes place this week - 6 days of jaw dropping and inspiring images from film makers and photographers who also happen to be super-gnarly hardcore action heroes, including Kilian Jornet and Seb Montaz. Over 20 films will be screened over 4 nights, including an open air screening at Lac des Chavants in Les Houches on 23rd August. Check out the schedule as there is bound to be something to grab your attention, as well as films there will be courses, workshops and exhibitions - get involved!

More details of this and other events can be found on our What's On Calendar.

Latest News & Reviews

Find out all about what is happening in the Chamonix valley and how to make the most of your time here. The latest news, reviews of fun activities, current events and the trendiest restaurants, as well as interviews with leading locals, insider's guides and our top choices for things to do, see and experience in the valley. Plus, during the winter season, our famous snow reports and dump alerts all in the same place.

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Upcoming Events

Chamonix hosts a wide range of sporting events throughout the year. The biggest ones include the Mont Blanc Marathon in June and the UTMB trail running race in August. In March, the Unlimited Festival brings ravers to the mountains while Musilac Mont Blanc takes place a month later. At the end of July, the Cosmo Jazz Festival hosts concerts all around the valley.

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