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Ice Climbing on the Mer de Glace review

Enjoying a spot of Autumn ice climbing ahead of winter

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By Megan Wallwork, Updated

Taking advantage of the continuing streak of autumnal sunshine in Chamonix at the moment, this weekend Margaux and I spent a day with friends on the Mer de Glace and enjoyed a hike across the stunning glacier, a taste of ice climbing and a very extravagant picnic!

With the Montenvers train open for the Toussaint holidays, the Mer de Glace glacier is once again very accessible by the ladders on the rock. These are fairly exposed, long ladders descending from just below the train station right down onto the ice of the glacier – although no technical equipment is required to climb down, the journey is not for the faint hearted and it is essential to carry the correct kit once stepping out onto the glacier down below.

It is always incredible to find yourself walking up the stunning Mer de Glace, enjoying 360 degree views on the Drus, the Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille du Midi, just a short while after stepping onto the train in Chamonix town centre. After about an hour of walking up the glacier, we arrived at the Moulin – the point where melt water has formed a steep walled well in the glacier with an icy river at the bottom.

This spot provides the perfect setting for practising ice climbing – it is possible to set up a belay point in the ice at the top of the wall. You can then abseil down the wall to the bottom of the ‘well’ and climb back up with the security of a top rope. This is a great way to have a go at ice climbing for the first time or as a training exercise to get back into using ice axes and crampons at the beginning of the winter season.

For me, one attempt was plenty, so after eventually making it back up to the top of the wall, I was ready for some lunch in our incredible picnic spot… and what better than a cheese fondue to refuel after the morning’s activity and to really make the most of our surroundings?! Sure enough, my incredibly well prepared friends had carried up all that was necessary to create our own mountain fondue, including a weighty saucepan, some wonderful Swiss cheese (pre-grated, naturally) and a bottle of sparkling wine. This really was dining in style!

We finished our unbelievable lunch with a hot chocolate, did a little more climbing and then packed up to get back up the Montenvers station for the last train, which is currently at 16.30. The ladders are certainly more tiring on the way up, so we were all feeling the effects of a great day in the fresh air on the journey down.

The train is remaining open until Sunday (2nd November) so it is still possible to get down onto the Glacier without a long hike up from the valley for the rest of this week.

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