Chamonix Activity Report: 3rd August 2012
The Italian Job : A Day Trip to Courmayeur
As much as there are plenty of things to do in Chamonix, sometimes it's nice to go on a road trip and enjoy a day out somewhere else. With Italy and Switzerland both within a stone's throw we are spoilt for choice and can be "abroad" in under 40 minutes, although consider the pizza factor and Italy usually wins the vote!
There are regular buses that run through the Mont Blanc tunnel from Chamonix to Courmayeur and cost 20€ return, or you can drive through for 32.70€ (although multipasses work out cheaper over time). I only really know the Courmayeur mountains in winter when they are included on the Mont Blanc Unlimited ski pass, so we took the failsafe option of buying a return pass for the Dolonne cable car (16€) and then hiking up the piste to one of our favourite restaurants, La Maison Vielle. In winter it is a cosy slopeside chalet serving hearty pasta and polenta dishes followed by lethal but delicious hot Bombardino cocktails, it is so popular that booking ahead is always a good idea. Summer is much quieter though so we were able to just turn up and get a table for 4 on the sunny lawn without having to wait. The outside tables have a great view down the Aosta valley and the terrace is a real sun trap, fortunately at 1956m the air is a bit fresher and cooler than lower down.
The service is typically Italian - brusque, haphazard, a bit confusing but very warm and miraculously you all somehow end up with what you ordered, despite the waitress not understanding what anyone said and trying to serve 5 tables at once. Between 4 of us we had an enormous dish of creamy pasta with mushrooms cooked in brandy, 2 doorstop-sized paninis and a big mixed salad that had about 20 different things in it, washed down with a 1.5ltr bottle of sparkling water and 2 glasses of wine. The bill came to just under 35€, which is another reason why we love going to Italy.
The hike up to the restaurant was an easy one, uphill but only took 40 minutes along a signposted track; from the restaurant there were a number of trails heading off in various directions so we'll definitely be back another time for further exploration. And pizza. The Maison Vielle is also a mountain refuge and is along the route of the Tour du Mont Blanc, so you can stay overnight if you want to do a long hike and see more of the area. Courmayeur isn't very good at promoting itself and information is hard to find online so sometimes it is best just to turn up and see for yourself! They have a good relationship with the Chamonix Tourist Office though, so they might be able to help you if you want to plan ahead.
After our mini-hike and leisurely lunch we decided to continue the chilled out theme and go for ice creams down by the river at Val Ferret. Val Ferret is another area that is best known in winter, mainly for it's cross country ski trails but also for snowshoe hikes and access to the Bonatti refuge (on my to-do list for this winter). It is every bit as charming in summer as in winter, with pretty little cafes and restaurants lining the clear blue river that gushes through it. A quick paddle followed by ice creams and a deckchair power snooze completed our Italian jaunt, it was like being on holiday for the day!
Our long hot summer looks set to continue for a few days yet, which is great news for the weekend. This Sunday there will be a village fete in Les Houches, complete with pony rides, equestrian show, bric-a-brac stalls, live music and refreshments - all the entertainment is free, just turn up! You could do worse than call into the Kitsch Inn afterwards, where Juggernaut James will be belting out some rock classics and Sunday dinner of roast pork and apple is just 15€.
Prior to that you can pretend that this heatwave has transported you to the Rio carnival and shake out some sexy salsa moves at the Love Latino party at the Slalom Bar in Argentiere on Saturday night, live music from Roxana de Cuba and special price on Cuba Libre cocktails. I'll be the one in the sequinned bikini and pineapple shaped headdress...
August is a busy month in Chamonix and there is loads going on so check out our What's On Calendar for parties, live music, family events and much more.
