I genuinely thought that I had been deposited in the UK at the start of this week - weather was dreadful, it was tipping down with rain, cold, there was even snow falling down to around 1500m! It only dawned on me that no, this was in fact still Chamonix, when I flicked on the news and saw the majority of the UK population sprawled on a beach or in the park as the country enjoys a fabulous May heat wave! Disgruntled, I turned the TV off and headed down to the cellar to retrieve my recently packed away ski jacket from storage....
However, that has all since changed and we are now back to glorious sunshine, temperatures in the high twenties and long, lazy interseason days. I do love this time of year; a chance to recharge the batteries after a busy winter, knowing that the summer season (although still very busy) is so much more chilled out than the ski season. Town is still very quiet at the moment and many of the hoteliers, bar and restaurant owners have taken the chance to get out the valley for a well earned rest while they can. I haven’t even seen my first Japanese tour group yet although I’m certain that there will have been a few already. As long as the Aiguille du Midi is open, they will come!
Talking of lifts, at the moment it’s only the Montenvers Train and the Aiguille du Midi cable car that are currently open. The remaining lifts in the valley will begin to open up again from 9th June, and the whole summer lift system will be in operation by the end of June (see our summer lift opening section for full details). On the Mer de Glace, the ice caves are currently closed for their annual maintenance until 15th June, but the flaura & fauna museum and the crystal gallery are both open once you’re at the top.
Even though town is quiet, there are still plenty of places to grab a coffee or an ice cream on a sunny terrace during the day, and in the evening, the liveliest spots for a bit of nightlife are normally rue des moulins or around the railway station – Chambre 9 and Elevation (although if you’ve only been to Chambre 9 in the winter, don’t expect it to be the same hedonistic bar in the summer!!).
I headed down the valley to Lake Passy a couple of times this week where I was hoping to escape the cold and the rain. The rain was still there but it was a good few degrees warmer than in Chamonix which explains why this is one of the most popular bathing lakes in the area, with the water temperature normally hovering around 21 degrees in summer. There wasn’t anybody swimming in it when I was there this week, but during the hot spell we had back in March, I saw several kids (apparently willingly!) taking a dip in the clear water. If you have a car when you’re here, it’s a great place to go with the kids as there are all sorts of activities available down there (mini golf, pedalos, go karting, fitness trail) as well as swimming in the lake, digging in the sand on the manmade beach or firing up the barbie. During the main season (July & August), lifeguards survey the swimming area making it a fun and safe environment to hang out with the kids.
I’ve also been out exploring some of the lower level hiking trails this week enjoying a little foray down the Petit Balcon Nord from Grands Montets to Les Lavancher and back up the river route on the other side of the river. It was scorchio out and about yesterday but hardly anyone else was on the trail – the odd runner, no doubt training for the upcoming marathon and a few bikers. However, you do need to keep your wits about you especially when approaching bends; I nearly collided head long with a biker who was also making the most of the empty trails. Don’t know who got the bigger fright – him, me or the dog! Anyway, this is a beautiful trail to walk or bike, whether you just do a section of it or follow it all the way back to Chamonix. If you do it in the direction I did (ie. start in Argentiere or beyond) and walk back, then there isn't anything too challenging gradient wise. It mainly takes you through pine forests with the occasional break out into beautiful meadowland. It's also nice and dry just now too despite the earlier rain this week and is completely clear of fallen trees.
Well today is Friday so that means it’s BBQ night in town – Chambre 9, the Vagabond and the Vert will all have their coals-a-glowing from around 6pm this evening - great way to finish off a busy week with a glass of wine and a burger on the terrace. Who am I kidding? Every day is Friday for me at the moment – I love interseason :O)
