Chamonix Activity Report: 14th September 2008
Ah, my beloved interseason. Mont Blanc Country in the autumn. Parking spaces galore all around town, even a seat at the bar at Chambre Neuf, lazy long lunchtimes at Elevation eating Hawaiian burgers, chilly mornings and lovely stable weather.
Sorry, what was that about weather? What changed?! All we've had up here for the last few days is fog and damp. Gone is the barmy, dry heat of summer. Gone even are the cool mornings of August, replaced only by condensation covered windows and dripping, yellowy leaves. Even the views, normally so beautiful and crystal clear in September, are blanketed by the clouds, the base of which is only a hundred meters below us. All that the weather offers is the occasional glimpse of the skeletal cranes hovering over Planpraz.
Luckily, fun-wise, there's still plenty to be had. Les Houches is open for hiking, biking and flying until the 21st September; if you fancy a less muddier experience, La Flégère's lifts are turning until the same date, but then re-opening for the All Saints holiday at the end of October. Then, and it's a big then, we're on every weekend until ski season. Unfortuntely, they're not likely to allow anyone up with a board or skis, even if it snows! We tried this last year and were turned away, so ended up hiking a closed Le Tour.
If hiking, biking and parapenting aren't enough for you, September is a great time to dip your hand into the shark pool of the househunting world. It's quite a buzz: being shown around overpriced, roachy tips; trying to ensure your landlord is on the right side of sketchy; sorting out who'll pay less for sleeping on the sofa. Every year the househunting deck is shuffled; to ensure you make the most of your hand, try following these tips to land a good apartment in Chamonix for the winter.
1. Get clever.
Good places go fast. Get ahead by having all your paperwork sorted; make sure your work contract, copies of references from previous landlords, copies of passport and deposit cheques are ready to go. On the subject of deposits, most landlords ask for two months' rent up front.
2. Be flexible
Three of you looking? Found a two bedder? Bunkbed up or crash on the couch. Two of you keen but your mate's dragging his feet? Drop him and sign. Lease is up in March? Take it and extend. Wanted the Sud but found somewhere in Pelerins? Take it and be thankful.
3. Look in the right places
Going to an agency brings apartments to you rather than you having to look - but it's darned expensive after the agent's taken their cut. The money for the juicy adverts and free lettings catalogues has to come from somewhere. If you want a nice place for a good price, be prepared to do the legwork yourself. That means checking out the adverts in Mojo's, on Cham74, at Super U and behind the Mairie (updated Thursdays).
4. Talk it up
No-one's going to offer you a place unless they know you're looking. So get talking. Tell all your friends you're looking. No friends yet? Well, tell the barman, tell the guy in the tourist office, tell the postman, tell everyone. Sooner or later someone will have a sister who has a friend who has a room free.
After all that househunting, we needed a good lunch. Somewhat over fondue and sick at the sight of tartiflette, we cruised over to Satsuki, the Japanese place opposite Brioch'In. And how pleased we were to be there. Though the joint excels at handmade sushi, their lunch menu offers unbeatable value at 10€ for miso soup, a huge plate of chicken teriyaki with rice on the side and a cup of green tea. Service was Japanese - fast and efficient - and the toilets were of the electronic variety, which left me with a face of bemused concern as I left the stall. Recommended!
Until next week, by which point I'll hopefully have taken some of my own advice and found myself an apartment for the winter. Right, race you to Mojo's...
